RTW Trip Tangier, Morocco Day 28: The Beat Generation’s Hippie Trail

If I was a buyer for home decor goods, Morocco would be my dream.  We did a lot more maze-like medina walking, followed by eating  pastilla, and drinking more mint tea.  The savory sweet pastilla is traditionally made with pigeon, but I just couldn’t do that version.  This one is filled with chicken rather than the flying rats.

Exterior of Cafe Baba

Kasbah sign

man at cafe

Man at Cafe Tingas

People Collage

A great stop was at Cafe Baba which was featured in Jim Jarmisch’s film, Only Lovers Left Alive.  The cafe is famous for being frequented by writers from the Beat Generation, as well as rockers such as the Rolling Stones.  The place has been known as a hashish smoking stomping ground, and it was quite evident when we were there.  We chatted to the owner a bit, and he was telling us about the famous people who have stopped by.  He also mentioned that the building across the street was owned by Woolworth heir Barbara Hutton, who would throw lavish parties on her roof.  Sadly, he was never invited.

Exterior of Cafe Baba

Exterior of Cafe Baba

Drinking mint tea inside Baba Cafe

Drinking mint tea inside Baba Cafe

I was feeling under the weather, so unfortunately I had to visit a doctor in Tangier.  I had my insurance book my appointment for me with an English speaking doctor, but he spoke very broken English, some French, and a lot of Spanish. Interestingly, our communication bordered all three languages.

For dinner, we ended up going to Restaurant Rif Kerabdani, that was co-owned by our hotel.  The service was amazing, and we even received a free appetizer.  The environment was nice, low key and not over the top touristy.  One of the guys working at our hotel recognized us, and we chatted to him a bit about our next destination to Chefchaouen, and he suggested us to go to a specific restaurant there. We chatted to him for about 10 minutes after dinner.  He was so nice and felt so strongly about this restaurant.  We took note, and said our goodbyes.

Dinner at Restaurant Rif Kerabdani

Dinner at Restaurant Rif Kerabdani

Costs:
Pastilla pizza samosa coke 30 dirham
Mint teas at Cafe Baba 20 dirham
Mint tea at Cafe Tingas 20 dirham
Taxi to doctor’s office 20 dirham
Doctor visit 250 dirham
Medicine 496 dirham
Restaurant Rif Kerabdani -tagine, harira soup, bread, olives, coke, sprite,kefta 120 dirham
Dar Rif Hotel $38

Total Costs: $38 + 956 dirham = $145.12 / 2 = $72.56 per person

*I know the doctor’s visit is not a sample of normal spending but I still added it as emergencies pop up!

What I learned: Despite language barriers, going to the doctor in another country is not as bad as you may think! Definitely have your insurance company book an appointment for you to avoid uncomfortable conversations when entering the doctor’s office.

Fish vendor at market

Fish vendor at market

Chicken vendor at market

Chicken vendor at market

Boys of Tangier medina

Boys of Tangier medina

How to eat sheep

How to eat sheep

Actual date of travel: Oct. 1, 2014

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