RTW Trip Goa, India Day 79: Remnants of the Old Hippie Trail in Chapora
We decided to stay longer than expected in northern Goa, but since Bean Me Up Hotel was fully booked the next night with their guests from the Bike festival in Vagator, we opted to move to Chapora, since we would be moving from beach to beach anyway.
We stayed in Casa de Olga, which seemed to have a lot of long termers staying here. We had to take a taxi from Bean Me Up to Casa de Olga since we wouldn’t be able to motorbike with our big packs. I realized that we had A LOT of petrol left in our motorbike, and since we rented the bike from the same place that got us our taxi, I asked for a discount on our car ride. When they checked our gas tank, they ended up giving us the cab ride for free! I think we saved 200 rupees!
Olga Hotel was run by a friendly family, and was located on a quiet street that felt like it was in the middle of the jungle. The room was comfortable with its own balcony and fridge. I think our British neighbor was staying there for 6 months!
I quite liked this Oasis Restaurant at Mandrem Beach as they had some multilevel seats along a very quiet and calm beach, with additional beach beds at sand level. We literally spent all day here! Their hand cut fries with a dusting of paprika was Greg’s favorite!
After our meal at our usual Yangkor Moonlight, we opted to head to one of the bars in Chapora, called Paulo’s Bar. We first noticed this bar when we rode through Chapora during the day. It seemed to advertise itself as a rock bar, had a bunch of pictures of rockers on the wall, and a sign stating ‘no drugs allowed.’ It didn’t look like there was much activity during the day, but by night, it was so full with locals, expats, and a handful of tourists, that it was difficult to get a seat.
I really liked this bar. It had a real rock vibe, cheap beers, friendly patrons, and felt like a cool rock bar in New York. (It felt like a pub version of the now shut and sorely missed St. Jerome). It was run by an expat, and his Indian partner, and their adorable little kid. There were a lot of characters there, including part-time expats that would spend 6 months of the year in Chapora only. We met a few Brits, a Norweigan, and an Austrian that all seemed to know each other, as they all come back year after year for about 6 months at a time. One older gentleman who was happily inebriated shared with us that he felt that Chapora, and this bar specifically was the only place left in Goa that still felt like Goa during the original hippie trail.
Taxi from bean me up to Casa de Olga free
Limes 10 rupees
Gas 70 rupees
Coconut oil 35 rupees
Oasis restaurant at Mandrem Beach (daal fry, veg noodle, roti, water, 340 rupees plus 330 rupees for water, beer, fruit salad,fries)
Yangkor Moonlight Tibetan Restaurant: risotto and penne, beer 540 rupees
Paulo’s Bar 240 rupees
Casa de Olga 500 rupees
Motorbike 300 rupees
Total costs: 2365 rupees / 2 =$18.42 per person
What I learned: If you plan on staying put in one place for a long time, bargain for your accommodation. We stayed at Casa de Olga for 500 rupees a night, which we thought was cheap enough, but I think our neighbor was paying something like 300 rupees per night for a better room… Then again, I think he was staying there for 6 months or so!
Actual date of travel: Nov. 21, 2014